December 16, 2014

呉服屋と太物屋




(普段着を買うについての悩み)

日本に初めて来たころ、着物を見に行くのがとても好きでした。ウィンドウショッピングほどは言えなくて、かんぺき着物を買うつもりはなかったからです。ただ、デパートで着物を見るのは楽しかっただけです。20年前(もしかしてそれ以上?!)、着物はデパートの中に、だいたい全国のお土産売場の近くにありました。すいでに、それも、日本の全国の文化財に近いほどの伝統品お土産を見るのも好きでした。(私の興味がなくなったわけではなくて、デパートの中の伝統品お土産の売場がなくなったのです。)


とにかく、デパートに行くとまず着物の売場を探しました。エレベーターの隣のフロア案内では英語も付いている場合、「kimono」が書いてありましたが、「着物」は書いていなかったのです。(今もそうでしょうね。)そのころの私は「着物」くらい読めましたが、「呉服」という言葉は知らなかったのです。(私の日本語教育はあまりにももの足りなかったでしょう。)段々、デパート案内で「kimono」=「呉服」と覚えてきたが、「呉服」の意味を辞書で引いてみたかったが、なかなか「呉」に字を覚えられなくて、もちろん発音も知らなかったのです。「呉服」を引いた憶えはないが、いつの間にか「formal」(フォーマル)という意味だと分かりました。

ちょっと話題がずれているが、今引いてみると、「呉」は中国春秋時代の「呉」の国 [Wu Dynasty]、(紀元前585年頃 - 紀元前473年)を指して、また中国から伝来した事物に冠していう語で、「呉服」はもとも「呉」の国から伝来した織り方(機織り)によって作られた織物の由来だそうです。すなわち、もたらされた機織り技法で作る豪華な反物です。


とにかく、浴衣はとても好きになって、夏になるとできる限り、浴衣を着ていました。はまってしまって、一年中に着たくなりました。「そう言えば」と思うって、「昔は皆が毎日、着物を着たではないか。また、そう言えば、デパートでは浴衣以外、毎日着そうな着物を見たことないわね」。浴衣以外は、日常的に着る着物は何でしょうかはさっぱり分からなくて、最初に挑戦したのはインターネットで買った木綿絣だったが、それは薄くて、やはり春と秋しか着られなくて、冬は寒すぎるからです。第2挑戦は谷中のリサイクル着物ショップで買った紬袷でした。それから、冬の普段着としては、紬袷に袖を通しました。今でもそうですが、紬袷は殆どリサイクル着物ショップで買っています。デパートで普段着の女性用の紬は見たことはないのです。リサイクル着物ではなくて、新しい普段着の紬袷はどこで買えるのでしょうか。また、どうしてデパートは扱っていないのでしょうか。不思議で、たまらないのです。

デパートでは男性用の値段高い紬を扱っていますが、女性用はあるのでしょうか。やはり、デパートの中は「呉服」ので、だからこそ日常的な普段着の着物を扱っていないわけのでしょう。普段着の着物を扱っている舗はどこにあるのでしょうか。江戸時代、呉服問屋は豪華な絹織物の反物を扱って、太物問屋は紬織物、綿織物、麻織物等を扱っていました。今、太物問屋はないですよね。本当に、リサイクル着物ショップか、インターネットのダイレクト ショッピング以外はどこで普段着の紬着物を買えばいいのでしょうか。


 





他の「着物のつれづれ」 (日本語版)は

こちらーー> 着物のつれづれ 





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auberginefleur at 02:32|PermalinkComments(0)着物のつれづれ 

December 12, 2014

AF’s Kimono Calendar NOVEMBER 2014

November: JAPAN!!!
Nov 8~10 Kimono Salone in Nihonbashi @ Coredo (きものサローネin日本橋 オフィシャルサイト)
Nov 11~13 Hundred People, Hundred Colors Ensembles @ Yuito (100人100色のキモノコーディネイト展示)
Nov 15 Japanese Association for Clothing Studies Symposium: Edo Period Summer Kimono as Seen in Ukiyoe Prints (日本衣服学会でAFの「浮世絵に見える江戸時代の薄物」発表)
Nov 16 BORO~Shabbily Beautiful~ @ Amuse Museum in Asakusa (アミューズミュージアムの特別展「布の絵画BORO〜美しいぼろ布展〜」)





Oct 28 Kimono Tuesday (?!) @ IMA

20141028 LM & AF



Nov 8~10 Kimono Salone in Nihonbashi @ Coredo (きものサローネin日本橋 オフィシャルサイト)



Nov 11~13 Hundred People, Hundred Colors of Kimono Coordinates @ Yuito (100人100色のキモノコーディネイト展示)


Me & My Mannequin





Nov 15 Japanese Association for Clothing Studies Symposium: Edo Period Summer Kimono as Seen in Ukiyoe Prints (日本衣服学会でAFの「浮世絵に見える江戸時代の薄物」発表)






Nov 16
BORO~Shabbily Beautiful~ @ Amuse Museum in Asakusa
(アミューズミュージアムの特別展「布の絵画BORO〜美しいぼろ布展〜」)









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auberginefleur at 02:52|PermalinkComments(0)Kimono: My Collection Etc. | Kimono Winter (Awase)

November 21, 2014

着物サローネ 百人、百色 1

一番格好いい
Best men's

image


auberginefleur at 05:00|PermalinkComments(0)着物のつれづれ 

着物サローネ 百人、百色 2

一番ユニークなアンサンブル
Most unique ensemble

image


auberginefleur at 04:13|PermalinkComments(0)着物のつれづれ 

着物サローネ 百人、百色 3

一番面白い布
Most interesting fabric

image


auberginefleur at 04:10|PermalinkComments(0)着物のつれづれ 

November 15, 2014

着物サローネ 百人、百色 4

このコ−デも素敵です!
帯揚げ、注目ね。(猫発見)
Also like !
Check out the obiage. (cats!)

image


auberginefleur at 08:41|PermalinkComments(0)着物のつれづれ 

着物サローネ 百人、百色 5

私が一番好き!
My favorite!

image


auberginefleur at 08:39|PermalinkComments(0)着物のつれづれ 

着物サローネ 百人、百色 6

一番私が着そう。
Most like I would wear.

image


auberginefleur at 08:36|PermalinkComments(0)着物のつれづれ 

着物サローネ 百人、百色

私の展示です。
AF's Display!

パープル万筋小紋の着物
バラ柄名古屋帯・銀座結び
ウィリアム・モリスバラ柄スカーフの帯揚げ
ビーズブレスレットの帯留め

Purple "man-tsuji" stripe komon awase kimono
Abstract rose motif Nagoya obi -- Ginza-musubi bow
William Morse design rose motif scarf as obi-age sash
Beads bracelet as obi-dome brooch obi accessory

image


auberginefleur at 08:34|PermalinkComments(0)着物のつれづれ 

October 31, 2014

Happy Halloween

auberginefleur at 05:58|PermalinkComments(0)Kimono Winter (Awase) | Kimono: My Collection Etc.

AF’s Kimono Calendar OCTOBER 2014

From Hitoe (unlined) to Awase (lined) kimono
Color of the Month: Maroon























20141028 LM & AF



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auberginefleur at 04:35|PermalinkComments(0)Kimono: My Collection Etc. | Kimono Winter (Awase)

October 24, 2014

Essays by AF on Yukata

Speaking of kimono books, several people have asked me if I have published anything on kimono, and the answer is I have published two essays on yukata both of which are parts from two different chapters of the book on yukata I have been working on in my spare time for several years now. The reason I published these two sections of the book is partly because of the publish-or-perish scenario in academia, and also because I wanted an example for the publishers of how I envision the book and how I would like the layout of the book. The second essay is a better example of what I wish for the layout with small box insets explaining the terms, with the Sino-Japanese characters and pronunciation included, for ease of reading along, instead of a glossary at the end.

The first essay, “Naga-ita Chūgata Aizome Dyeing Technique,” is part of the chapter on the dye techniques used for yukata; this essay based on an interview and observation of Noguchi-san who is the master of a workshop that has been dyeing fabrics using this method since the late Edo – early Meiji period. If you read the essay, you will find that the Noguchi Some-Kōjō workshop began from dyeing the minute stencil designs, now called Edo-Komon, used for the kamishimo garments of the military class. There are several other techniques also used for dyeing yukata, and I plan to include in the book similarly detailed descriptions of at least three other common techniques still used today, including Arimatsu shibori.

The second essay I published, “The History of Yukata Fashion: Part I Edo Period,” forms part of the first chapter of the book on yukata and gives a brief explanation of the development of yukata in the Edo period. The second half of this chapter, not yet published, will bring the history of the yukata into the 21st century.

*I should probably also mention that the term “hemp” in both articles is a translation of the Japanese term asa 麻, which includes a number of different but somewhat related bast fibers, but now I kind of wish I had used “ramie” as a translation instead.

Both essays are available online, if you wish to download and read them.


2010, The Naga-ita Chugata Aizome Dyeing Techinque, 跡見学園女子大学文学部紀要 (Journal of Atomi University Faculty of Literature)Vol.45(2010.9)、p. 1-9.

2014, 浴衣の着こなし史1 : 江戸時代 The History of Yukata Fashion: Part I Edo Period, 跡見学園女子大学文学部紀要 (Journal of Atomi University Faculty of Literature). Vol.49 (2014. 3)、p.101- 112.



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auberginefleur at 15:25|PermalinkComments(0)Kimono: Terms & Info 

September 30, 2014

AF’s Kimono Calendar SEPTEMBER 2014




By now any poor soul who follows my blog has realized, my coordination for September was all about the Textile Symposium in LA. I had one tiny carry one on, and that was it, to fit all my kimono and kimono accessories in. So, I had to limit myself to 3 kimono and 3 obi, which turned out just fine for 6 days. In fact I had possible ensembles left over. I thought I might continue to wear the left-over ensembles (poor things) after I returned to Indy, but only ended up doing one more ensemble one the 25th. I could still have worn the Blue Nagoya Obi with the Grey Kurume Kimono, and the Hakata Hanhaba Obi with the two tsumugi kimono, plus the Hakata Hanhaba Obi is reversible, so all told I still had 5 possible ensembles left! However, the final 5 ensembles weren’t as pleasing as the others, so I just moved on.

When I left, LA was in a heat wave, but Indy when I arrived was in full-blast autumn with surprisingly low temperatures. Here I was betwixt late summer (in LA, I wished I had brought summer kimono) and already fall in Indy. Hence, why I wore the mustard hanahaba obi with the grey kurume kimono, trying to use color to create a more fall ensemble. I was about to put the cotton-ramie Dots (dubbed by FB friends the Dalmatian) away for the year, but decided to wear it one last time first. (I actually even wore it one more time after that, as you will see when I post Oct’s calendar).

With the purple strip Hanhaba obi on the indigo katsuo-stripe kimono, I was practicing a musubi Mr. K-san had put on FB, that supposedly was the musubi the geisha of Edo wore when invited on a Yakatabune pleasure boat in summer, called appropriately enough the Yakatabune-Musubi.




The 3 Kimono:
1) Kurume-Gasuri Cotton Hitoe Kimono
久留米絣 単衣
2) Beige and Blue Plaid Silk Tsumugi Hitoe
3) Tōkamachi Silk Tsumugi Hitoe Kimono with floral motif (cute dots in shibori)
十日町紬 正絹 とおかまちつむぎ 白地に描象的な花柄 時代物





The 3 Obi:
1) Hakata Hanhaba obi, white and purple reversible
多織 献上柄 半幅帯 小袋帯
2) Kimono Blue Nagoya Obi, floral motif (probably kikyō flowers, and probably shioze fabric)
3) Ebi-cha (Maroon) Nagoya Obi with cute butterflies
九寸名古屋帯「エビ茶に可愛いちょうちょ」



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auberginefleur at 23:42|PermalinkComments(0)Kimono Autumn (Hitoe) | Kimono: My Collection Etc.

September 21, 2014

AF's Coordination for Textile Symposium 2014

What I Really Wore... actually pretty close (see first thoughts here)




* Some the images were taken in a mirror. Don’t worry, I am wearing my kimono properly left-over-right.
*いくつかの写真は鏡で取ったので、左右が逆になっていますが、ご心配なく、着物は左上を間違いなく着ています。


TUE The 9TH
Kurume-Gasuri Cotton Hitoe Kimono

久留米絣 単衣
Hakata Hanhaba obi, white and purple reversible
博多織 献上柄 半幅帯 小袋帯
Obiage, crimson and silver
Obijime, burgundy-purple narrow belt


All I had to do this day was get myself on the airplane, shuttle to UCLA, and check in. So, I wore my most comfy kimono, plus being cotton I thought it was sturdy enough not to stretch at the derriere while seated on the plane for hours, and I was right. With luggage and stuff, I didn’t want to use one of my fancier obijime-obidome sets, in case they might get damaged, and I thought the crimson-silver obiage just worked best with the ensemble. I forgot to take my cellphone out of my obi before going through the x-ray machine, which caused a search of my obi, but the lady was very kind about it, as I pulled everything out of my obi, including my obi-ita board.

WED The 10TH
Beige and Blue Plaid Silk Tsumugi Hitoe Kimono
Blue Nagoya Obi, floral motif (probably kikyō flowers, and probably shioze fabric)
Obiage, crimson and silver (with the crimson portion showing)
Obijime, crimson-maroon narrow obijime cord
Obidome, white with crimson flower (here worn showing the back flower petal)


This day I went to the pre-symposium workshop on early dyebooks at the Getty research Institute. I saved what I considered by best outfit for the following day, which was the opening of the symposium. It was quite hot outdoors in this kimono, but luckily we were inside most of the time. After the symposium I went out the friends for drinks, where it was too noisy to talk, but we had great conversations walking there and back from the UCLA campus.

THU The 11TH
Tōkamachi Silk Tsumugi Hitoe Kimono with floral motif (cute dots in shibori)

十日町紬 正絹 とおかまちつむぎ 白地に描象的な花柄 時代物
Ebi-cha (Maroon) Nagoya Obi with cute butterflies
九寸名古屋帯「エビ茶に可愛いちょうちょ」
Obiage, 1st white with maroon shibori dots, 2nd purple and maroon clamp resist silk textile
Obijime, reversible purple and white


This I thought was the nicest ensemble of the bunch I brought and saved it for the first day of the symposium and the opening event in the evening. This ensemble did get the most comments, and many people of various nationalities asked to take pictures with me. I started out with a white obiage with crimson dots in shibori, but found this gorgeous silk scarf at the vendors there. It’s from Bhuj in Gujurat NW India and is clamp-resist dyed in purple and maroon. It was not cheap, but it just called to me; I couldn’t resist! Although this kimono is much cooler than the beige plaid I wore the day before, with heat and worry about spilling something on this rather nice kimono, I decided to do easy and casual and cooler the next day!

FRI The 12TH
Kurume-Gasuri Cotton Hitoe Kimono

久留米絣 単衣
Hakata Hanhaba obi, white and purple reversible
博多織 献上柄 半幅帯 小袋帯
Obiage, purple and maroon clamp resist silk textile
Obijime, reversible purple and white


I met a friend for a very early breakfast, and never did get a chance, or remember, to take a picture of myself. Good thing I decided to go casual and easy, since I had to get up early in the morning! The more I wore this Kurume-gasuri kimono, the more I became enamored of it all over again. Coupled with the Hakata hanhaba, obi—this time worn with the purple side out—it was cooler, lighter, less worrisome, and just way more comfortable.

SAT The 13TH
Tōkamachi Silk Tsumugi Hitoe Kimono with floral motif (cute dots in shibori)

十日町紬 正絹 とおかまちつむぎ 白地に描象的な花柄 時代物
Blue Nagoya Obi, floral motif (probably kikyō flowers, and probably shioze fabric)
Obiage, white with maroon shibori dots
Obijime, crimson-maroon narrow obijime cord
Obidome, white with crimson flower


Today was the day we went to LACMA, and of course I was beside myself with excitement about seeing the Meisen kimono exhibition there. Part of my theme for this whole trip was to do a number of ensembles in a retro Taishō-esque style in honor of this exhibition. Plus, I thought there would be a number a people at this symposium who really knew about kimono (actually as it turns out, there were very few), so I wanted to dress well and appropriately, yet in somewhat comfortable and every-day wear kimono. It being mid-September already I did not feel comfortable about wearing summer kimono in such a crowd, but it was SO HOT, I really regretted not bringing another summer kimono instead of the beige plaid silk hitoe. The exhibition, btw, was fantastic, but it is a shame they did not do a catalogue.

SUN The 14TH
Kurume-Gasuri Cotton Hitoe Kimono

久留米絣 単衣
Hakata Hanhaba obi, white and purple reversible (purple side out again)
博多織 献上柄 半幅帯 小袋帯
Obiage, purple and maroon clamp resist silk textile
Obijime, burgundy-purple narrow belt


It was time to go home. The symposium was fantastic, and I made some wonderful new friends, but I was pooped. I has signed up to go to a post-symposium, tour, but the time was changed to meet even earlier, and with exhaustion and the need to pack, I just cancelled it and spent a relaxing day around campus and re-visiting the Textiles of Timor exhibition at the Fowler Museum. Once again, I wore my comfy Kurume-gasuri hitoe for the travel back to Indy.






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auberginefleur at 06:01|PermalinkComments(0)Kimono Autumn (Hitoe) | Kimono: My Collection Etc.

Orchestra Plays to Feline Pianist





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