December 03, 2006


Finally winter has come, so I went to "Sugita Rock", one of a few selections in winter. But definitely today was not my day. Although basically I'm weak in cold, besides I may have got a crack on my rib bone. I should have hung around at home such a cold day.


Mr. Itoh warm up on "Wakatte Yasuyo (11d)", which when I was trying, I got injured.

madrock at 20:04|PermalinkComments(0)TrackBack(0) Sugita Rock 

November 06, 2006


It was a comletely gorgeous weekend and I could have a nice climb at Gongen, Okayama. I have to tell one thing. I finally redpointed Shita-ni-ha-Shita-ga-oru(usually abbreviated as Shita-Shita),11d. It took 3 or 4-day trial, 7 or 8-climbs. After redpointing Kawarabeito, 11c and Shita-Shita, I can go on to Momo, 12a, the most popular and the entry route to 12a.


Gongen is dominated by a steep limestone wall. Don't you think the color contrast is awesome, black rock, red leaves and blue sky?


This is Shita-Shita, which start at overhang and followed by vertical face.
(The climber is not me)


Now I'm working on Momo, 12a.

madrock at 01:54|PermalinkComments(1)TrackBack(0) Gongen 

October 31, 2006

Start over again!

I'll restart this blog with photos of Smith Rock in Oregon. I went there mid-Oct. but there were no days without rain! It is desert climate, so it has less rain, though. It is still incredible that I could climb all days. Have fun.





madrock at 01:54|PermalinkComments(0)TrackBack(0) Tours 

April 02, 2006

I'll start over.

I've been away from updating this blog for a long time. It is partly because I'm under rehabilitation and not in the mood for doing it. But now I'll start over, so drop by at this blog!

At bicchu, apparently the best season of Hayama area is over, 'cause water began to soak out. When the temperature goes up by a few degrees, Gongen, a cold area, gets climbable instead.

madrock at 17:42|PermalinkComments(1)TrackBack(1) miscellaneous 

December 18, 2005

One of options on a freezing day like today

Mr. Sugita, one of route establishers in Bicchu, has been opening his climbing wall. Why don't you do gym-climbing there on a freezing or rainy day? Today I climbed there for my rehabilitation.



madrock at 17:59|PermalinkComments(1)TrackBack(0) miscellaneous 

December 17, 2005

Brand new area

It's been cold from the beginning of December, hasn't it? This is the right time you should go " Sugita-rock". You should hike for 30 minutes, crossing streams a few times, but it's worth it. First of all, you can make a fire there because it locates on the hill top. It really works. I was injured, so I was keeping it all day long!

The over view of the rock. There are precisely 15 routes, but 10 of them are climbable. You can climb a 12d halfway for warm-up because there is another anchor.

On Yamada-no-Akkochan(12c).

Mr. Shimizu grabbing the last tiny hold on Wagayadeha-kounanndesu(12d).

madrock at 12:33|PermalinkComments(0)TrackBack(0) Sugita Rock 

December 04, 2005

I've been back.

It's great to climb on such a gorgeous day for a change. I went climbing for the first time since I got injured three weeks ago. New area, where I went, is getting into its best season. It's warm and in the good condition with no soaking out.

Remember. You should take an light because you go down on a steep path in the dark. It's getting dark around 5 p.m.

Her right fingers are paralyzed by an accident while climbing in Spain three month ago. Still, she's been climbing. What unbelivable guts! I should learn from her.

It was a long way, right? Shino-yan finally redpointed Jikann-yo-tomare(12a) after numerous attempt for three years. You are a 12-climber for sure.

You must have be tired, Chikako. You couldn't go through the last lunge section on Shikoku Daini Kokudoh(13a/b), which you can redpoint.

Mr. Sugita, enjoying good friction on Mizu-no-Awa(12a/b).

madrock at 06:39|PermalinkComments(0)TrackBack(0) New area 

November 20, 2005

Oh, no!

It was a tough week for me.
I was injured in an traffic accident when bicycling to work last Mon.
Fortunately I escaped hospitalization but I'm totally not in climbable condition.

I hope I'll be climbing next month.

Damn it!

madrock at 08:29|PermalinkComments(0)TrackBack(0) miscellaneous 

November 13, 2005

Almost redpointed, but...

4 weeks in a row, I climbed at Gongentani. Aiming red-point of Kawarabeito(11c), I worked on the route seriously, but couldn't make it. I managed to go over the crux for all climbing, but at the follwing section, which is easy to go, I failed. I'm gonna have next week be my day.

Winter is just around the corner. It's comfortable to doze off around a fire. Have you heard about Yuka Shibuya, one of famous Japanese climbers? She is sitting leftmost.

How do you feel about Shitanihashitagaoru(11d), Mr.Takimoto?

This section Mr.Kono is passing is sacaring to me most, but I missed after that. He is not climbing Kawarabeito but Deka~(12c),the extended version of Kawarabeito.

Grabbed the last hold on bbbbb(12a), Yuka?
This was her onsight trial and made it easily.
You great!

madrock at 07:30|PermalinkComments(0)TrackBack(0) Gongen 

November 06, 2005

Direction to Gongentani

From Kasaoka I.C. on Sanyo highway

Turn RIGHT onto prefectural road 34 toward north.
The road turns R313 around central Ihara.
Follow it until intersection of R313 and prefectural road 33. You see "Kawakami Furusato Center" on the right there and a sign "手川橋" just under a light.
Turn LEFT onto prefectural road 33.
Turn LEFT onto prefectural road 106.
Turn RIGHT at the sign"権現谷".
Follow it and you can see an overhang wall on the right. You never miss it.
If passing there about 2-300m, you can turn around.
Parking is near the wall.

Refer to the attached maps.




madrock at 16:04|PermalinkComments(0)TrackBack(0) Gongen